Nikko Toshogu

PRESERVE Selected

The shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu's mausoleum and the most extravagantly carved complex in Japan — five hundred colours of gold leaf, the sleeping cat, the three wise monkeys. It anchors any Nikko golf day; the courses sit under the same cedar mountains.

The Okumiya climb past the sleeping cat empties out late afternoon, after the school groups leave.