A Change of Air — NijoACOA 京都二条
A privately rented Kyoto townhouse near Nijo Castle with its own sauna — A Change of Air's design-led stay that pairs the warmth of a home with a refined, contemporary space.
A working directory of restaurants and places to stay we've stopped at and vouch for — hidden gems, local institutions and historic inns, gathered along the way to the courses we play.
A privately rented Kyoto townhouse near Nijo Castle with its own sauna — A Change of Air's design-led stay that pairs the warmth of a home with a refined, contemporary space.
A golf select shop by Utsubo Park connecting international and Japanese golf culture — apparel, gear and its own club-building LABORATORY a short walk away.
A charcoal-grill izakaya run by a local couple that has fed Hirafu for decades — long before Niseko became an international resort. Yakitori, sashimi and local-farm vegetables.
One of Hakodate's oldest ramen houses (1950), serving the city's signature clear shio ramen and wontons in classic style, ignoring modern ramen trends entirely.
Started in 1954 by a widow feeding five children, this cramped Susukino counter defined Sapporo-style jingisukan: raw mutton grilled over a domed skillet with a house sauce unchanged for 70 years.
Founded 1971, its master Tsutomu Shimamiya is a government-honored 'Contemporary Master Craftsman' who brought Edo-style technique to Hokkaido's peerless seafood. The Maruyama main counter is widely held as Sapporo's benchmark sushi.
Chef Toshihiro Wada's Ginza counter, open since 1987 and Michelin-starred since 2010, elevated yakitori into fine dining using prized Okukuji shamo chicken grilled over binchotan.
Chef Toru Okuda's intimate Ginza kaiseki, long a Michelin-starred reference point for modern Edo-Tokyo kaiseki built on impeccable seasonal sourcing and quiet precision.
Open since 1880 and one of the great names of Tokyo soba; rebuilt after a 2013 fire, it still serves elegant hand-cut buckwheat in a refined courtyard setting that helped define the modern soba restaurant.
Established in 1801, this Asakusa landmark has served dojo (loach) hotpot the same way through fires and generations; eating at its low communal floor tables is one of the most authentic surviving Edo dining experiences.
A tiny Minami-Otsuka counter that held a Michelin star from 2017 to 2023 and now sits in the Bib Gourmand; its layered sesame-and-chili tantanmen is among Tokyo's most celebrated bowls.
Roughly 200 years old and now run by its fifth generation, Nodaiwa is Tokyo's benchmark for wild-style unagi, slow-grilled over charcoal and served in a beautiful old kura-timbered setting near Tokyo Tower.
Said to be Japan's oldest tempura restaurant, founded in 1837 right beside Asakusa's Kaminarimon; famed for kakiage and an old-Edo style fried in fragrant sesame oil.
Opened by Shinji Kanesaka in 2000 and a two-Michelin-star stalwart of the Ginza sushi scene; Kanesaka received Michelin's Mentor Chef award in 2025 for shaping a generation of Tokyo sushi.
Founded by legend Keiji Nakazawa in 1989, this Yotsuya counter pioneered the alternating nigiri-and-tsumami omakase format now copied citywide; carried on by successor Keita Katsumata, it remains a pilgrimage for serious sushi people.
Founded in 1760 as a poultry house, Tamahide is the acknowledged birthplace of oyakodon and one of Tokyo's oldest restaurants, still serving its Edo-era chicken-and-egg rice in Ningyocho.
One of Fujiyoshida's defining Yoshida-udon houses, open since 1981, serving the famously firm, thick hand-cut noodles in a miso-soy broth with cabbage and horse meat — everyday food born from the town's textile-mill era.
Founded 1934 in Hakone-Yumoto, Hatsuhana invented jinenjo (wild yam) soba bound with grated yam and egg instead of water in the postwar years — the originator of a dish now copied across Japan, served in an old riverside building.
A 1934 mountain-pass teahouse where the novelist Dazai Osamu lodged for two months and wrote 'One Hundred Views of Mt Fuji'; serves miso hoto with one of the most storied Fuji-and-lake panoramas in Japan, plus a small Dazai literary room upstairs.
Founded 1976 at the Hakone gateway of Kazamatsuri, Tomoei rests its prized 'blue eel' in pure local spring water before grilling; it held a Michelin star four years running (2012-2015) and is considered among Japan's finest unagi.
Founded 1870, Kagimotoya traces back to an Edo-period merchant inn on the Nakasendo highway; its handmade Shinshu soba uses Naka-Karuizawa's pristine water and is prized for robust, aromatic noodles.
On Old Karuizawa's historic Ginza street, Kawakami-an carries the Edo tradition of soba-shop drinking — freshly milled, hand-cut buckwheat with seasonal dishes and good sake in a serene setting.
Built in 1903 as the Nara governor's guesthouse and hidden deep in the primeval forest behind Kasuga Taisha, Tsukihitei serves seasonal kaiseki to a tiny number of guests and has hosted the Imperial Family — a serene, secret retreat unlike anything in the city.
Established in 1688, this soba house serves handmade noodles in homemade broth from a beautifully restored machiya with a central courtyard, famous for nishin-soba (herring soba) and the table-cooked one-pot 'hokoro' — a true taste of old Kyoto.
Founded in 1635 beside Nanzenji temple as a rest stop for pilgrims, Okutan is Kyoto's oldest tofu house, still making fresh yudofu daily in a rustic thatched-roof setting among temple gardens — a pure expression of Zen simplicity.
Open since 1939 along the Takase River, Menami is a beloved obanzai counter where seasonal Kyoto home-style dishes are laid out in big bowls along the bar — the genuine article for obanzai, Kyoto comfort cooking refined over 80-plus years.
Tucked down a private walkway near Osaka Castle, Yoshitora has served some of the city's most sublime charcoal-grilled eel since 1922 — tender steamed-then-grilled unagi brushed with sweet-salty tare in refined traditional rooms.
Founded in 1841 in Senba and run by the seventh generation of the founding family, Yoshino Sushi is the birthplace of hakozushi (Osaka pressed box sushi); its jewel-box pieces of shrimp, sea bream and shiitake are a living piece of culinary history.
The definitive Hakata torikawa specialist: chicken-skin skewers grilled and rested over six days until buttery and crisp. The benchmark for Fukuoka's signature yakitori style.
Founded 1978 in Tenmonkan, Ajimori invented kurobuta shabu-shabu and helped revive Kagoshima's black pork — served its own way, in broth with egg rather than ponzu.
Oita's first Western-style restaurant (1926) and the birthplace of toriten — fried chicken inspired by Chinese cuisine. Just celebrated its 100th anniversary under the founding family's fourth generation.
Founded 1905, Suigetsu literally invented Hakata mizutaki — its founder fused Western consommé and Chinese chicken-soup technique. Now in its third generation, it has deliberately never opened a branch.
An adults-only retreat where every suite is 50m2-plus with its own private bath drawing Noboribetsu's sulfur springs, and kaiseki blends Japanese and French technique — a refined, intimate counterpoint to the town's large hot-spring hotels.
Founded in 1858 by carpenter Kinzo Takimoto, who built a hut so his ailing wife could bathe in Noboribetsu's waters — it is the oldest inn in the onsen town and effectively created the resort, with a vast variety of spring types drawn from Jigokudani.
A contemporary ryokan of 15 standalone villa-suites, each with indoor and open-air baths fed by its own gensen-kakenagashi source that ranks in Japan's top tier; quiet, architectural luxury near Niseko.
Founded 1892, the gabled wooden landmark of gaslit Ginzan Onsen, famed for its kote-e plasterwork and Taisho-era atmosphere; a Registered Tangible Cultural Property and the postcard face of the town.
The oldest and most storied inn of Nyuto Onsen, an Edo-period mountain spa (~350 years) whose thatched 'honjin' lodging, once for the Akita lord's retinue, is a Registered Tangible Cultural Property. Irori dinners and milk-white open-air baths.
The oldest established inn of Kinugawa Onsen (130+ years), known for its soaring atrium lobby and gorge-side baths — a longstanding name in a hot-spring valley with 300+ years of Edo-era history near Nikko's shrines.
Under the Kanaya name (founded 1873, Japan's oldest classic resort hotel lineage), this lakeside Oku-Nikko property pairs Canadian log-house architecture with Yumoto hot-spring water and classic French cuisine in Nikko National Park.
Founded 1877 facing Kusatsu's iconic Yubatake, Naraya draws from the historic Shirahata source and is the only inn in town to keep a 'yu-mori' hot-spring master who conditions the water by hand.
A 16-room adults-only auberge along the clear Kano River; all rooms have private open-air spring baths and the kitchen is built around refined French cuisine paired with local produce. Minimalist design dissolving into the forest.
Founded over 530 years ago beside Shuzenji temple; its signature Meiji-relocated Noh stage 'Gekkeiden' floats above a 600-tsubo pond. First Japanese inn admitted to Relais & Chateaux, with 16 sukiya rooms.
Began as a 1938 villa and opened as an inn in 1948; named after painter Yokoyama Taikan, who made it his regular haunt. Sukiya architecture by Hirata Masaya and a Japanese garden by Tatsui Matsunosuke.
Founded 1806, Atami's oldest inn, still family-run after 220 years. Draws 100% unheated, unfiltered water from its own private 'Seizaemon-yu' source, with kaiseki served in-room.
Built on the 1930 summer villa of Prince Kan'in and opened as a ryokan in 1948; sukiya architecture, hillside gardens and a polish that rivals Relais & Chateaux. Hakone's benchmark luxury ryokan.
Founded 1625; its Meiji main building and Kinsenro wing — a rare fusion of Western architecture and sukiya craftsmanship — are designated National Important Cultural Properties. Hosted Fukuzawa Yukichi and Ito Hirobumi.
A Tonosawa healing-spring inn since 1614, named by Japan's first PM Ito Hirobumi. Its towering vermilion Taisho-era wooden building is a National Registered Tangible Cultural Property.
Founded in 705 CE and run by 53 generations of one family — Guinness-certified world's oldest hotel. Deep in the Southern Alps, entirely fed by gushing own-source water with no heating or dilution.
Open since 1874 where two Amagi rivers meet (name given by Yamaoka Tesshu); seven buildings are National Registered Tangible Cultural Properties. Beloved by writers Kawabata and Shimazaki Toson, sensitively reborn in 2019.
On Kawaguchiko's north shore, every guest room and open-air bath faces Lake Kawaguchi and Mt Fuji head-on, with seasonal kaiseki. The connoisseur's choice for an uninterrupted Fuji view at close range.
Built on Hoshino's hot-spring grounds first opened in 1914 and adjoining the historic Karuizawa Wild Bird Sanctuary, this is the flagship that launched the Hoshinoya brand — water-village architecture and a deep sense of place in Japan's classic highland resort.
A legendary small-luxury inn of just 10 rooms set on a one-acre wooded estate above Yamanaka, with cuisine on locally made vessels and source-spring baths overlooking the valley; it never advertises and ~70% of guests are returners.
Founded in 1885 (Meiji 18) at Wakura Onsen, a historic family inn on the Noto coast where guests bathe and dine looking out over Nanao Bay — centuries of Wakura's saltwater-spring tradition in an intimate, non-corporate setting.
Founded 1818, one of Kyoto's 'big three' inns, family-run for seven generations; the old wing is exquisite sukiya architecture where every room differs. Nobel laureate Kawabata Yasunari and Tanizaki treated it as a second home.
Founded in the late-Edo Ansei era (~165 years), a Registered Tangible Cultural Property and Relais & Chateaux member at the heart of Kinosaki's seven public baths; founders served as town mayors.
A 100-year-old sukiya building (a former high-end ryotei) sensitively reborn as a 23-room small-luxury inn steps from Yasaka Shrine, blending machiya bones with modern comfort.
Kyoto's oldest operating ryokan (c.1704, 300+ years), widely called the finest inn in Japan; its wooden main building is a Registered Tangible Cultural Property. Understated perfection that defines the genre.
The oldest ryokan in Arima — Japan's oldest hot spring — traced to 1191 and named 'Gosho' after a visit by shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu; its ~90-year-old wooden building is a Registered Tangible Cultural Property.
A prestigious coastal ryokan among pines and sea, famous for its natural steam sand baths and an Edo-period-style Genroku bath, plus the Satsuma Denshokan museum of regional art on the grounds.
Twelve guest houses transplanted from century-old Niigata farmhouses and reborn under the concept of 'regeneration of old houses' at the foot of Mt. Yufu — a benchmark of Japanese design-ryokan taste.
The inn whose third-generation owner Tetsuya Goto — called the father of Kurokawa Onsen — carved its famous 30-meter cave bath by hand with hammer and chisel; an atmospheric, old-world ryokan that helped make the whole village a national treasure.
Sixteen independent cottages dotted through a 2.5-acre forest, evolved since 1953 from a Zen priests' sanatorium; one of the inns that defined Yufuin's quiet, intellectual style of hospitality.
Hokkaido's chief shrine, founded with the island's pioneers and set against the woods of Maruyama Park — cherry blossoms in May, snow-quiet in winter. An easy morning stop from central Sapporo before driving out to the island's golf.
Tokyo's great urban shrine — a cedar-lined approach through a hundred-year-old forest that swallows the city whole. Walk it at 7am before a round and you'll have the gravel paths, sake barrels and towering torii nearly to yourself.
The shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu's mausoleum and the most extravagantly carved complex in Japan — five hundred colours of gold leaf, the sleeping cat, the three wise monkeys. It anchors any Nikko golf day; the courses sit under the same cedar mountains.
The vermilion 'torii of peace' rising out of Lake Ashi is Hakone's defining image. The shrine itself sits up a mossy cedar stairway behind it — pair the visit with an onsen night in Yumoto and a morning tee time in the hills.
For centuries every Fuji pilgrimage on the north side began here, under cryptomeria older than the shrine records. Ten minutes from the Fuji Five Lakes golf belt, it turns a spare pre-round hour into the most atmospheric stop in Fujiyoshida.
The head shrine of all Inari shrines and Japan's most hypnotic walk — tunnels of vermilion torii winding up Mount Inari. Go at dawn: the crowds arrive with the tour buses, and the upper loop is near-empty year-round.
Nara's great shrine, reached through a primeval forest where sacred deer wander between three thousand stone and bronze lanterns. Combine it with lunch at Tsukihitei in the forest above for the most complete half-day in Kansai.
Kyushu's most beloved shrine, built over the grave of the scholar-god Sugawara no Michizane and famous for six thousand plum trees that bloom while the rest of Japan is still in winter. Thirty minutes from Fukuoka's golf, best with an umegae-mochi in hand.
Sapporo's total golf salon near Odori Park — shop, TrackMan and GCQuad fitting bays, and a club workshop under one roof.
Tsuruya Golf's substantial Sapporo store in Nishi-ku, with a PING-certified fitter, an indoor practice range, a fitting room, a workshop and used-club sales — the most complete new-and-used destination for golfers heading to Hokkaido and Niseko.
The golf line of BEAMS — one of Japan's most influential streetwear and select-shop names — bringing its crossover, city-first styling to golf. The store sits on the 11th floor of Daimaru Tokyo, directly connected to Tokyo Station, with tax-free service for foreign visitors.
CAPTAINS HELM's golf line at home in Daikanyama — California outdoor style filtered through a Tokyo street sensibility.
Alpen's premium fitting flagship across from Shinjuku Takashimaya — top-brand clubs with advanced fitting studios and tax-free service.
A directly-run Golf Do on Tokyo's Kan-Nana ring road that the chain rates among its largest used-club floors, with an in-store hitting bay and workshop above a shared car park.
Golf Do's large-format 'NEXT' concept store in west Tokyo, opened 2025 inside honobo Golf, pairing 2,000-plus used clubs with one of Japan's biggest indoor simulator ranges and a PING-certified fitter.
A used-club specialist in Setagaya's Sakurashinmachi known for rare and collectible finds — Scotty Cameron putters, US-model imports and premium trade-ins — with in-house club tuning and a buyback desk. The flagship of a small Tokyo–Kanagawa chain founded in 1995.
Golf Partner's Yamate-dori store in Meguro — a roomy used floor of roughly 2,500 clubs with grip and fitting service, tax-free. A calmer, residential-side alternative to the station megastores.
A three-floor Golf Partner a few minutes from Shimbashi Station, stacked with over 3,000 used clubs and billed by the chain as one of Japan's largest second-hand floors for women's clubs. Tax-free, central, and plugged into Golf Partner's nationwide used inventory.
A Golf Partner tucked into the basement of the Shinjuku Center Building, reachable underground straight from Shinjuku Station without stepping outside — around a thousand used clubs in Tokyo's busiest transit hub, tax-free.
Alpen's flagship one minute from Shinjuku Station's east exit fills two floors of a ten-storey megastore with the Golf5 lineup — 8,000-plus clubs across every model and spec, an eight-bay trial area with simulators, and tax-free service. A genuine Tokyo golf landmark.
The flagship of Niki Golf, founded in the Ameyoko market by Okachimachi Station in 1973 — the new-goods main store, a short walk from the chain's separate second-hand center. One of Japan's best-known golf specialists, on central Tokyo's densest shopping street.
Niki Golf's tax-free secondhand center in the Ameyoko market arcade — used clubs and gear at sharp prices, steps from Ueno Station.
A golf-apparel select shop and original brand in Daikanyama with a street-meets-course aesthetic — its flagship pairs a curated floor (its own line alongside labels like CAPTAINS HELM GOLF and BANDEL) with an in-store café booth, and it's dog-friendly. The name flips 'golf' and nods to the Renaissance ruff collar: tradition, overturned.
A new-style select store in Sendagaya pairing golf apparel from domestic and international brands with well-chosen vintage.
Xebio's national Victoria Golf flagship at Shinjuku Station — a whole nine-storey building of golf, billed as Japan's largest specialty store with 70,000-plus items, a trial room on every floor and an in-house customisation workshop. Tax-free.
Golf Do's north-Kobe used-club store set inside the Accordia Garden Kobe Sanda driving range, so practice and used-gear shopping sit under one roof. Car-access, in the hills above the city.
A Golf Kids used-club store inside the Frespo Higashi-Osaka mall, with 1,300 free parking spaces, a test-swing room and a launch monitor. It buys back clubs, bags and rangefinders — a car-oriented suburban shop rather than a walk-in.
Golf Kids' Kobe store in Nishi-ku, tapping the chain's used network of hundreds of shops, with a trade-in bonus for clubs previously bought from the chain. Bus-access and local rather than touristy.
Golf Partner's Honmachi branch in central Osaka bills itself 品揃え関西No.1 — Kansai's top used selection — and is an official tax-free store, two Midosuji-line stops from Namba, drawing on the chain's shared network of hundreds of thousands of used clubs orderable between branches.
Kyoto's main Golf Partner used outlet, by the Kyoto-Minami interchange in Fushimi, with an in-store two-bay hitting range and grip/fitting service. Best reached by car or taxi rather than on foot.
Tsuruya Golf's largest Kyoto store, near the Horikawa–Marutamachi crossing by Nijō Castle, with a PING-certified fitter, a modern trial room, a repair workshop and used-club sales. Tax-free and convenient to central Kyoto.
Tsuruya Golf's Honmachi flagship — one of Japan's largest golf sales floors across six storeys, with the entire fifth floor given to used clubs and brand fitting studios including Titleist. An official tax-free store, four minutes from Honmachi subway.
A downtown Golf Partner about two minutes' walk from Hakata Station, carrying 3,000-plus used clubs, tax-free, with English- and Korean-speaking staff — one of the most inbound-friendly golf shops in Kyushu.